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The TrainingBeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

Neely Quinn - Climber, Nutritionist, TrainingBeta.com Captain


Podcast Overview

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Podcast Episodes

TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's

TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions

TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan

TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send

In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. 

TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers

I interviewed chiropractor Natasha Barnes about the 4 bests lifts for climbers,  shoulder and finger injuries, and optimal body weight for climbers. 

TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O'Grady

In this interview I talked with Shannon O'Grady, PhD, from Gnarly Nutrition about what she thinks are the best supplements for climbers.

TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury

In this interview, Physical Therapist Esther Smith talks about her protocol for healing finger injuries for climbers. She and Dan Mirsky used the protocol for their own finger injuries. 

New Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and Beyond

Body Awareness Interview Details

  • What is body awareness?
  • Why it's important in climbing
  • 3 best movements to train overall body awareness
  • How body awareness is helpful in relationships
  • How body awareness is helpful with nutrition
  • Why that's all important for climbing

 

New Podcast Series with Mercedes!

 

I've talked with Mercedes Pollmeier on the podcast a couple times now (#1 and #2), she wrote an article for us, and she's our in-house online personal trainer for TrainingBeta. So knowing how knowledgeable she is and how easy she is to talk to, I wanted to make her a more constant presence on TrainingBeta. That's why we decided to begin a new podcast mini series together. 

We'll be talking every month or so about a different topic of climbing training. The talks will be shorter than a normal podcast: only about 20 minutes. They'll be a quick bite of information that will be usable and digestible that will hopefully help your training immediately. 

A Little More About Mercedes

Mercedes is a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master’s degree in Human Movement and works with climbers of all types and abilities, ranging from elite level/competition climbers to novice alpinists. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. 

She’s offering 1-month and 3-month online training programs to people who feel like they need a little more individualized help than our other climbing training programs can provide. She is detail oriented, very focused on proper form, and offers continuous support and feedback to her online clients via the Trainerize app.

 

TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine

About Madaleine Sorkin

 Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a living as a sponsored climber and as a climbing guide and clinic leader. She's currently hosting "Mad Sensei" clinics with Justen Sjong helping people gain confidence leading trad and sport climbs. 

Madaleine is a mentally tough climber with a lot of experience up high, having freed Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), Leaning Tower (5.13-), El Corazon (5.13b) in Yosemite, and most recently, The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13c) in Rocky Mountain National Park. All of those climbs are nails hard, long granite climbs. 

In this interview we talk about how she physically and mentally prepares herself for those kinds of endeavors, what she eats while she's doing huge days, and what her current goals are. 

 

Madaleine Sorkin Interview Details
  • Highlights of her climbing career 
  • How she trains for long routes outside and inside
  • Lofty goals for this year
  • How she trains power outside
  • Resting on big walls: her strategies
  • What she eats on big walls 
  • Why weight lifting is important to her

 

Madaleine Sorkin Links
  • Guiding and climbing Website at www.madaleinesorkin.com
  • Instagram: @madaleinesorkin
  • Mad Sensei Lead Confidence Clinics: www.coloradomountainschool.com
  • Videos of Madaleine climbing: Videos

 

Photo Credit

Henna Taylor 

 

TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier

About Mercedes Pollmeier

This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master’s degree in Human Movement and works with climbers of all types and abilities, ranging from elite level/competition climbers to novice alpinists. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. I wanted to ask Mercedes about her training philosophies, and how she trains people online in particular.

She's offering 1-month and 3-month online training programs to people who feel like they need a little more individualized help than our other climbing training programs can provide. She is detail oriented, very focused on proper form, and offers continuous support and feedback to her online clients via the Trainerize app. 

 

Mercedes Pollmeier Interview Details
  • Her climbing accomplishments and injuries she's overcome
  • Biggest mistakes she made as a trainer in the beginning
  • Her latest discovery about bouldering training
  • Client case studies
  • Why she doesn't believe in taking time off
  • How her athletes stay injury-free
  • What training with her online is like

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