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Venetian Life

William Dean Howells

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Book Excerpt: 
. . .around the fascinating walls hang huge plates of bronzed earthenware for a lavish and a hospitable show, and for the representation of those scenes of Venetian story which are modeled upon them in bass-relief. Here I like to take my unknown friend—my scoundrel facchino or rascal gondolier—as he comes to buy his dinner, and bargains eloquently with the cook, who stands with a huge ladle in his hand capable of skimming mysterious things from vasty depths. I am spell-bound by the drama which ensues, and in which all the chords of the human heart are touched, from those that tremble at high tragedy, to those that are shaken by broad farce. When the diner has bought his dinner, and issues forth with his polenta in one hand, and his fried minnows or stewed snails in the other, my fancy fondly follows him to his gondola-station, where he eats it, and quarrels volubly with other gondoliers across the Grand Canal.

A simpler and less ambitious sort of cook-shop a. . . Read More

Community Reviews

This was such a gem of a book, describing Venice in a unique period of her history. What I found most delightful is some of his asides and little jokes and small observations that felt so contemporary- I don’t think I’ve read an author from the mid 19th century and felt any kind of relatability in t

First published in 1866, this is a look at Venice at a time before central heating and electricity. The author devotes himself to providing a true picture of Venice and Italy, even to the point of making fun of his own prejudices as a tourist. In one sentence he bemoans the lack of creature comforts

As a young man, William Dean Howells spent four years as US consul in Venice (arriving in 1862) when it was under Austrian rule.

Fortunately for him, those were not yet the days of mass tourism, and he was able to stroll around the city, go for swims in the Grand Canal from the front steps of his ho